Ever since I first contemplated a time of sabbatical back in
late 2009, I had thought of staying in a Trappist monastery somewhere. Well,
during my vacation in France, from May 18-22, 2012, I had the privilege of
staying at l’
Abbayé Port du Salut, founded in the 13
th century.
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| Abbayé Port du Salut (Salvation Port - It's on the Mayenne river) |
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I was taken first to the refectoire, a small dining area
where between 4 and 8 of us took our meals. I felt very much the anthropology
student, trying to make sense of a new world as an outsider. For example, it
was only after eating did I realize that the 2 women that appeared to be nuns,
were indeed nuns, but also guests at the abbey, too, staying on a different
floor of the hotellerie than where I was.
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| The guest quarters (built sometime in the 1900s) |
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After a meal of several courses, I was taken by brother
Alexandre, tall and lean with a grey goatee, to the guest area and my room
which overlooks the courtyard and the main chapel. It’s fairly simple as rooms
go, but not a far cry from many I’ve stayed in at SIL guesthouses. I have my
own sink, but the toilet and showers are down the hall.
I expected there to be more community with the monks, but they live and work in their cloister
which is off-limits to guests, who also eat separately from the monks. But you
do see the monks – one brings us the food. And there are others in the
bookstore, reception. And you see them in action during the “offices” (worship
time).
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| Across the river from the Abbey |
There is, however,
good
fellowship with the other guests. Monasteries have the traditional function
of welcoming guests and so there is a constant rotation of them. This also
provides income. During my stay, there have been 3 nuns, at two or three
couples, a group of priests here for day retreat, and at least 2 SDF
(Sans-domicile-Fixe – homeless) for whom place is provided along with food. One
said he had been on a pilgrimage all over Spain and Italy and knew all the
monasteries.
Sister Yvette was
around the entire time I was. She is a nun in another town, working with 2
other nuns (at 70 she is the YOUNGEST of the three). They are living in an
inner-city area among a whole host of internationals: Eastern Europe, Turkey,
Former Soviet Union, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, China, North Africa and
Subsaharan Africa. Their ministry is to just be there among these people,
helping where they can and showing love. She also served for 5 years in Cote
d’Ivoire back in the early 70s.
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| Soeur Yvette |
We weren’t really supposed to talk much during mealtimes, so
often we would sit in silence – and sometimes there was a recording playing
with a monk somewhere reading the lives of the saints, or the rule of Saint
Benedict, or something else, but Yvette
seemed to be the one to break the silence, especially after meals. She was
interested in what was happening in Mali and others seemed to be as well. She
also had a lot of genuine questions that seemed to come to mind about how we
protestants did things: “You don’t have saints, do you? Well, I guess you
probably have saintly people you just don’t call them that.” “Do you pray the
psalms?” “Do you say the “Our Father”?” “What about Jehovah’s Witnesses? How do
you consider them?”
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| Chapel (l) and dining room, (door on far right) |
Thankfully, Yvette took the effort to show me what to do in
the services or else I would have been lost. She showed me where to find the
sheets at the back of the chapel that I would need for the service and how to
use the Psalter to find the Psalms, Old Testament and New Testament songs that
we would be chanting.
Worship times: If
you’re going to come to a monastery for a personal retreat, this is what it is
all about. I originally set reminders on
my phone so as not to miss all of them but realized they have a bell tower to
remind you and are pretty vigorous about it. The daily services (offices) are:
- 4:30 a.m. Vigiles – have to say I never made it
to one of these. It’s all well and good if you go to bed at 8 or 9 like the
monks do.
- 7:15 a.m.
Laudes followed by Eucharist (Communion), though on Saturday and Sunday,
this happens around 11 a.m
- 12:10 pm
- Sexte (followed by lunch)
- 6 pm Vespers
- 6:45 supper
- 7:45 Compiles

I have to say that I really enjoyed the services once I
figured out how they worked at least so that I was on target about 2/3 of the
time with sitting, standing, finding the right song, and figuring out the
unwritten bits to repeat in between songs, after prayers, etc.
The monks – there are only 9 remaining – sit in the middle
section of the church, half on the left and half facing them on the right. One
of them on each side has a microphone. The far end of the chapel has a big
altar and a crucifix, and a candle that must be 4 feet tall. It is the week
after ascension, so the crucifix is draped in white linen, representing the resurrection
and ascension.
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| Altar and Crucifix, draped for Ascension |
The other participants sit in the rows at the near end of
the church. There are half-a dozen guests staying in the monastery, except on
Sunday when the place was full and on Monday when about 100 school-kids showed
up for a tour.
The Monk Alexandre who is also the guesthouse guy, usually
leads out on the first of several psalms that are chanted. Their psalter has
all of 150 psalms, retranslated to fit in a meter that can be chanted. They are arranged in couplets so
that one side of the chapel chants one couplet and the other side chants the
other back and forth. It took me a while to realize that the lines are written
with one syllable underlined. This indicates that everything before that
is chanted high, and then at the underlining, you drop down, either going back
up or further down before the end of the line.

There are usually 3 psalms, and the one old testament song
and a new testament song – all chanted. At the end of each song, if you are not
already standing, you stand and bow and sing “to the Father, the Son and the
Holy Spirit, from age to age, . .. AMEN.” (with a few variations).
There seems to be a song that has to do with the liturgical
year that is sung at every service, but just for a week or so.
And there is usually at least one scripture reading, followed by a long period of silence,
which in an old stone chapel is REALLY quiet. And they don’t dilly around with
a minute of silence like we do and then crank the music up before people can
get around to any contemplation. This might go on 5-8 minutes. At times, you
think they might have gone to sleep. Then things start up again winding down
with the Lord’s prayer (sung) and more silence.
There was only ONE sermon and that was in the Sunday mass,
but it is not as if the scripture is missing since all that you sing is
straight scripture. When there is
prayer, it is much more structured than I like, with the monk leading out
several short prayers like “We pray for
all those staying with us tonight” and the congregants repeating something like
“Lord, hear our prayer”.
All in all, the rhythm of the services is nice, with plenty
of time for reflection during the psalms and quiet times. One can appreciate these men who have
basically given their lives to praying and meditating on scripture 6 times a
day, creating a sacred space in their communities.
I had a bit more connection than I might have had with this
group because of the Abbe, Père Joseph who
was a catholic missionary (Pere Blanc) in Mali from the 1971-1991 in dogon
country. I found this out reading his bio before I emailed about staying here.
He reminded me a lot of Rene Valette, for those who know him, a very kind
grandfatherly man who took a lot of interest in everyone. He came around the
first morning to chat about Mali, catch up on the situation there, and see how
I was doing. And when he realized I was freezing, he brought me first his coat
and then a sweater. And finally he asked me to speak to their chapter meeting
on Monday evening, which was fun because I got to go back into the cloister and
see the monks out of their public setting. They were quite interested in the
work in Mali and also determined to pray for the situation there.
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| hydroelectric plant on the river next to the abbey |
I hope the Abbey can sustain itself into the next generation
and beyond. They have a lot of buildings dating back centuries, and only 9
monks remaining. Most are past the age they can do much real work, there are
one or two Novices, who are not really all that young. The Abbey used to have a
cheese making industry with their own cows and land. This was sold off 30 years
ago (and still operates next door). They have a commanding position on the
river and there is a dam and small hydroelectric plant operated by the monastery. Guests provide some income.
And there is a gift shop with books and items produced by other abbeys that
they sell.
The 4th
grade glass that came to tour the abbey and sit in on a service did not seem to
really “get it”. When they time of silence came, it was obvious they had NO
clue what to do with themselves. They were more respectful than a group of
American kids might have been. I didn’t see any cellphone or texting, but there
was plenty of whispering. At lunch that day, the other guests and I got into a
conversation about the need for silence and contemplation, especially in our
busy world of many distractions. Several said that they had had experience
taking kids and getting them to have 2 minutes of silence. Then the next day 4.
Then 6. Then 8. And that they liked it. Apparently people who are not religious
at all, come here to get away from the noise. So maybe there is hope for this
sort of place in the future.
En attendant, I will savor the memories of chanted psalms
and quiet reflections but also look forward to worship next week somewhere with
a guitar, drums, keyboard, maybe some clapping and hands raised.